Krakow

I know I am in Poland when I wake in a chilly farmhouse, my breath visible as I creep to the tiled bathroom while wrapped in a lovely down duvet.

The window looks out at green hills and silhouettes of church steeples dotting the horizon.

Another morning finds me running through the cobblestone square in old Krakow,witness to an orange sky glowing through the fog. The 48 hectare expanse of Blonia Common was once used by the general population to graze their cattle. It is now used for open air concerts, papal masses and dog-walking.

On another morning I see dawn rise behind Kamieniec Castle in Korczyna, near Krosno and 80km from the Ukraine border. I walk the outdoor stations of the cross (the Kapliczka shrine) in my private-yet-public pilgrimage up the mountainside.